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Efo Egusi

Also known as Efo Egusi (Vegetarian Melon Soup)

Vegetarian Efo Egusi demonstrates the remarkable depth of flavour achievable in Nigerian cooking without any animal protein. The richness of ground egusi (melon seeds), the bold fried tomato and pepper base, the umami depth of generous ground crayfish (for non-strict vegetarians) or mushrooms (for vegans), and the freshness of abundant leafy greens combine to create a soup that is fully satisfying and deeply Nigerian in character.

Efo Egusi, Nigerian cooking

Ingredients

  • 2 big cups of ground egusi (melon seeds)
  • 6 big handfuls of fresh shoko (Yoruba spinach) or regular fresh spinach, washed and chopped
  • 2 big handfuls of fresh mushrooms (oyster or button), cleaned and sliced
  • 3 cooking spoons of palm oil
  • 3 big Tatashe (red bell peppers), blended
  • 3 Atarodo (hot chilli peppers), blended
  • 1 big onion — half blended, half sliced
  • 3 big handfuls of ground dried crayfish (omit for vegan version)
  • 1 tablespoon of iru (fermented locust beans) — optional but adds depth
  • 3 seasoning cubes (Knorr), crushed
  • Salt to taste
  • 2 glasses of water or vegetable stock

Method

  1. 01

    Frying the Pepper Base. Heat 3 cooking spoons of palm oil in a wide, deep pot over medium-high heat. Add the iru if using and fry for 1 minute — it will immediately release a deep, pungent aroma. Add the sliced onion and fry 2 minutes. Add the blended Tatashe, Atarodo and onion. Fry very vigorously for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring constantly, until deeply cooked, dark red and the oil visibly floats on top. This deeply fried pepper base is the flavour foundation of the soup.

  2. 02

    Adding the Mushrooms. Add the sliced mushrooms to the fried pepper. Fry for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring, until the mushrooms release their moisture and begin to colour. Mushrooms provide a meaty, umami-rich quality that compensates beautifully for the absence of meat.

  3. 03

    Frying the Egusi. Mix the ground egusi with enough water to form a thick paste — similar to peanut butter consistency. Drop spoonfuls of the egusi paste into the hot pepper and mushroom base without stirring immediately. Allow the egusi to fry undisturbed in the hot base for 5 minutes — you will hear it sizzle and the egusi will firm up slightly. Then stir everything together and fry for a further 5 minutes until the egusi smells nutty and is well-fried.

  4. 04

    Adding Liquid and Seasoning. Add 2 glasses of water or vegetable stock to the pot. Add ground crayfish (if using), crushed seasoning cubes and salt. Stir everything together. Bring to a steady simmer. Cook on medium-low heat for 15 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. The egusi will dissolve into the soup, thickening it beautifully.

  5. 05

    Adding the Leafy Vegetables. Add the chopped shoko or spinach to the soup. Stir through vigorously. Cook for just 5 minutes — the leaves should wilt and turn a vibrant dark green but must not become mushy. Taste and adjust all seasonings. The soup should be rich, thick, boldly flavoured and deeply satisfying despite containing no meat.

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